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BMW E30 Brake Line Install Guides

BMW E30 inBay with OEMC (CB-E30-ABSOEMC)

1. We always recommend starting the installation by mounting the Bias Valve supplied with the kit. This will be mounted using one of the studs/bolts that secures the Brake Master Cylinder to the Brake Booster. We typically will use the stud/bolt closest to the passenger side of the vehicle or underneath the Brake Master Cylinder depending on the application.
 
2. The first thing you will want to do is secure the Double Sided Banjo Hole Adapter to the front port on the Brake Master Cylinder using the supplied 10mm Banjo Bolt & Crush Washers.
 
3. The first line to be connected will be the front driver side line. This line will be roughly 9" long with 90Ëš Fittings at either end. The 3an Female fitting will be connected to the rearward side of the Double Banjo Hole Adapter that we connected to the Brake Master Cylinder. The other end of that line will be routed through the hole to the side of the Brake Master Cylinder that leads to the driver fenderwell and will connect to that fenderwell brake line.
 
4. The next line will be the front passenger side line. This will be the longest line in the kit and will be the only one with a Chase Bays label on it. The female 3an end of the line will connect to the forward side of the Double Banjo Hole Adapter on the Brake Master Cylinder. The other end of the line will be routed across the firewall and will go through the hole leading to the passenger fenderwell where it will connect to the passenger fenderwell brake line.
 
5. Now for the rear brakes, the longer of the two lines left with the Banjo Adapter Fitting at one end and 90Ëš Fitting at the other end will be attached to the rear port on the Brake Master Cylinder using the 10mm Banjo Bolt & Crush Washers supplied with the kit. The 90Ëš Female 3an Fitting will then be attached to the Bias Valve "in" fitting.
 
6. The last line left will connect to the Bias Valve "out" fitting using the 45Ëš Female 3an Fitting. The other end of that line will then be connected to the OE rear hardline where the OE proportioning valve was installed. Below is a photo pointing out which line that is in the engine bay.

 

7. Now that everything is connected, you will need to bleed the air out of the braking system. To do this, we recommend using the "old school" 2 person method with one person pumping the brake pedal and the other bleeding air at the caliper. We have found that vacuum or pressure bleeders give sub par results and generally just add to the time this will take to complete. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the Brake Master Cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the caliper closest to the Brake Master Cylinder (driver front).

 

BMW E30 with Single Piston Brake Booster Delete (CB-E30-BBE)

1. We recommend having the ABS module (if applicable) removed and the Brake Booster Eliminator and Bias Valve installed before connecting the lines in this Brake Line Relocation. To install the BBE and Bias Valve, follow the steps below. If you already have these products installed, continue to step 2.
 
Brake Booster Eliminator Installation:
  • Disconnect the brake lines at the master cylinder/abs module and remove from the engine bay.
  • Install the BBE through the holes in the firewall where the OE Master Cylinder/Brake Booster was located and secure it using the 4x M8 nuts supplied with the BBE.
  • Adjust the clevis on the BBE so that the pin can slide through it and the brake pedal without having to manipulate either to get the holes to line up.
  • Tighten the 5/16 x 24 nut on the Master Cylinder rod against the clevis to keep it from moving.
Bench Bleeding:
  • We recommend bench bleeding the BBE Master Cylinder prior to connecting the Bias Valve. This is easiest done by securing one of the brake lines in your Brake Line Relocation Kit to the 3an banjo adapter on the Master Cylinder and putting the other end of the line in the Brake Reservoir.
  • Fill up the reservoir with brake fluid and begin pumping the pedal, making sure that the free end of the Brake Line is completely submerged in brake fluid.
  • Continue pumping the pedal for a few minutes until you can not see any bubbles coming out of the Brake Line in the reservoir. Once there are no more bubbles you're good to go!
Bias Valve Installation:
  • Remove the nut securing the bottom of the BBE Master Cylinder to the mounting plate and slide the Bias Valve bracket over the stud so that it is hanging. Thread the nut back on the stud and tighten it to secure the Bias Valve.
  • Using the Stainless Steel Hard Brake Line supplied with the Bias Valve, connect it from the -3an Banjo Adapter on the BBE Master Cylinder to the "in" fitting on the Bias Valve.
 
2. The first line to be connected will be the shortest in the kit. It should be about 6" long with 90 degree fittings at either end, it will also be the only line in the kit with a Chase Bays logo on it. The female 90 degree fitting will be connected to the T Fitting on the Bias Valve. The other end of the line will then be routed through the hole in the driver side fenderwell and will connect to the fenderwell brake line.
 
3. Next will be the longest line in the kit, it should be about 49" long with 90 degree fittings at either end. The female fitting will be connected to the T Fitting on the Bias Valve. Route the other end of the line low on the firewall just above the transmission or along the sway bar and connect it to the passenger front fenderwell brake line.
 
4. Last will be the 12" line with one straight and one 90 degree fitting. The 90 degree end will be connected to the "out" fitting on the Bias Valve. The straight fitting will then be connected to the OE rear hard brake line on the inside of the driver side fender. You will have to remove the OE proportioning valve and connect our brake line directly to the OE hardline. I have attached a photo for your reference.
 
Now that everything is connected you will need to bleed each caliper, we suggest doing this with the Bias Valve knob all the way out (to the left) to give the most flow to the rear calipers. We have gotten the best results by using the two person method having one person pumping the pedal and another bleeding air at the caliper. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest caliper (driver front).



BMW E30 Front to Rear Brake Lines & Rear Hard Line Delete (CB-E30-RLINES)

1. The first line to be installed will be the longest one in the kit and will be the only one with a Chase Bays label on it. The male 90Ëš fitting will be connected to the OE Proportioning Valve located on the driver side inner fender. If you have one of our Brake Line Relocations already, this line will be connected to the rear brake line from the kit. Attached is a photo showing where in the engine bay this connection will be made. This line will then be routed down the firewall and along the inside of the "frame rail" on the driver side in the same path that the OE hardline takes. You can reuse the original retainers to keep the line secure under the car.
 
2. Now you will want to mount the two Bulkhead Fittings under the rear of the car using the tabs that were originally used to secure to the OE Brake Lines. The Bulkhead T Fitting will be secured to the driver side tab and the straight Bulkhead Fitting will be secured to the passenger side tab. The Bulkhead Fittings should go through those mounting tabs from the front so that the threaded portion of the Fitting is facing the rear of the car.
 
3. Now you can connect the straight end of the brake line connected in the engine bay to the side of the T Bulkhead Fitting. The line will need to be routed past the gas tank and around it to reach the Bulkhead Fitting. The second photo attached to the email shows that line secured behind the gas tank and routed to the T Bulkhead Fitting.
4. You can now use the shortest line in the kit with 90Ëš Fittings at either end to connect the two Bulkhead Fittings together. The third photo attached shows what everything should look like now.
 
5. You should now have two roughly 30" brake lines left with straight fittings at one end and 45Ëš fittings at the other end. The straight end of each of those lines should be connected to either of the Bulkhead Fittings. The other end of those lines will be routed through the mounting tabs used to secure the e brake cables on the control arms & dust shields. The 3rd and 4th photo attached show the tabs we are referring to. If your parking brake cables are still in place you can just zip tie the brake lines to those mounting tabs.
 
6. With those brakes lines routed through the mounting tabs you can now connect the 45Ëš end of the lines to each Caliper using the 10mm to 3an Adapter Fittings supplied with the kit.
 
7. Now that everything is connected you will need to bleed each caliper, we suggest doing this with the Bias Valve knob all the way out (to the left) to give the most flow to the rear calipers. You can use a pressure or vacuum bleeder but, we have gotten the best results by using the two person method having one person pumping the pedal and another bleeding air at the caliper. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest caliper (driver front).