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Nissan S13 / S14 / S15 and R32 Brake Line Relocation Install Guides

LHD Nissan S13 / S14 / S15 inBay with OEMC (CB-N-S134OEMC)

1. Remove all OEM brake hardlines and hardware connecting the OEMC to the Fenderwell Line connections and rear hardline coupling block. You will retain the rear hardline and coupling block (found on the inner frame rail section near where the factory fuel hardlines come into the engine bay) with this kit.

Note the pathways from each of the 3x OEMC ports. The front port is for the rear brakes, the middle port is the front driver, and the back port (closest to the booster) is for the front passenger. 

2. Starting from the rear port of the OEMC, attach the long line in the kit without the Chase Bays logo using the included M10 banjo bolt and 2 washers. Remember to use 1 washer per side of the line for a proper seal. Route this line down to the subframe, along the front of the subframe, and up the passenger side to the OEM hole in the strut tower to the Fenderwell connection. The orientation of the 45 degree fitting should point the line towards the hole in the strut tower when attached to the Fenderwell Line connection. You may have to rotate the line at the banjo end to orient the fitting correctly. 

3. Moving to the middle port of the OEMC, attach the shortest line in the kit using the included M10 banjo bolt and 2 washers. Remember to use 1 washer per side of the line for a proper seal. Route this line down to the OEM hole in the driver strut tower to the Fenderwell connection. The orientation of the 45 degree fitting should point the line towards the hole in the strut tower when attached to the Fenderwell Line connection. You may have to rotate the line at the banjo end to orient the fitting correctly. 

4. Lastly, attach the long line in the kit with the Chase Bays logo using the included M10 banjo bolt and 2 washers to the front port of the OEMC with the label facing forward. Remember to use 1 washer per side of the line for a proper seal. Route this line down to the subframe, along the front of the subframe with the passenger line, and up the passenger side to the rear hardline coupling block. The straight M10 male fitting will attach to where the OEM hardline was connected at this location.

Now that everything is connected you will need to bleed each caliper. We suggest doing this after checking each connection and banjo bolt to ensure everything is tight and leak free. We have gotten the best bleeding results by using the two person method - having one person pumping the pedal and another bleeding air at the caliper. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest caliper (driver front).

  

RHD Nissan S13 / S14 / S15 inBay with OEMC (CB-N-S134OEMC-RHD)

1. Remove all OEM brake hardlines and hardware connecting the OEMC to the Fenderwell Line connections and rear hardline coupling block. You will retain the rear hardline and coupling block (found on the inner frame rail section near where the factory fuel hardlines come into the engine bay) with this kit.

Note the pathways from each of the 3x OEMC ports. The front port is for the rear brakes, the middle port is the front driver, and the back port (closest to the booster) is for the front passenger. 

2. Starting from the rear port of the OEMC, attach the long line in the kit without the Chase Bays logo using the included M10 banjo bolt and 2 washers. Remember to use 1 washer per side of the line for a proper seal. Route this line down to the subframe, along the front of the subframe, and up the passenger side to the OEM hole in the strut tower to the Fenderwell connection. The orientation of the 45 degree fitting should point the line towards the hole in the strut tower when attached to the Fenderwell Line connection. You may have to rotate the line at the banjo end to orient the fitting correctly. 

3. Moving to the middle port of the OEMC, attach the shortest line in the kit using the included M10 banjo bolt and 2 washers. Remember to use 1 washer per side of the line for a proper seal. Route this line down to the OEM hole in the driver strut tower to the Fenderwell connection. The orientation of the 45 degree fitting should point the line towards the hole in the strut tower when attached to the Fenderwell Line connection. You may have to rotate the line at the banjo end to orient the fitting correctly. 

4. Lastly, attach the short line in the kit with the Chase Bays logo using the included M10 banjo bolt and 2 washers to the front port of the OEMC with the label facing forward. Remember to use 1 washer per side of the line for a proper seal. Route this line down towards the subframe, and back to the rear hardline coupling block. The straight M10 male fitting will attach to where the OEM hardline was connected at this location.

Now that everything is connected you will need to bleed each caliper. We suggest doing this after checking each connection and banjo bolt to ensure everything is tight and leak free. We have gotten the best bleeding results by using the two person method - having one person pumping the pedal and another bleeding air at the caliper. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest caliper (driver front).

  

RHD Nissan R32 inBay with OEMC (CB-R32-OEMC)

1. Remove all OEM brake hardlines and hardware connecting the OEMC to the Fenderwell Line connections and rear hardline coupling block. You will retain the rear hardline and coupling block (found on the inner frame rail section near where the factory fuel hardlines come into the engine bay) with this kit.

Note the pathways from each of the 3x OEMC ports. The REAR port (closest to the booster) is for the rear brakes, the FRONT SIDE port is the front driver, and the FRONT TOP port is for the front passenger. 

2. Starting from the REAR port of the OEMC, attach the short line in the kit without the Chase Bays logo using the included M10 banjo bolt and 2 washers. Remember to use 1 washer per side of the line for a proper seal. Route this line down towards the frame rail, and back to the rear hardline coupling block. The straight M10 male fitting will attach to where the OEM hardline was connected at this location.

3. Moving to the FRONT SIDE port of the OEMC, attach the shortest line in the kit with the Chase Bays logo using the included M10 banjo bolt and 2 washers. Remember to use 1 washer per side of the line for a proper seal. Route this line down to the OEM hole in the driver strut tower to the Fenderwell connection. The orientation of the 45 degree fitting should point the line towards the hole in the strut tower when attached to the Fenderwell Line connection. You may have to rotate the line at the banjo end to orient the fitting correctly. 

4. Lastly, attach the long line in the kit using the included M10 banjo bolt and 2 washers to the FRONT TOP port of the OEMC. Remember to use 1 washer per side of the line for a proper seal. Route this line down to the subframe, along the subframe itself with the best possible routing, and through the OEM hole in the passenger strut tower to the Fenderwell connection. The orientation of the 45 degree fitting should point the line towards the hole in the strut tower when attached to the Fenderwell Line connection. 

Now that everything is connected you will need to bleed each caliper. We suggest doing this after checking each connection and banjo bolt to ensure everything is tight and leak free. We have gotten the best bleeding results by using the two person method - having one person pumping the pedal and another bleeding air at the caliper. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest caliper (driver front).

  
  

LHD Nissan S13 / S14 / S15 inBay with Single Piston Brake Booster Delete (CB-N-S134BBE)

1. We recommend having the ABS module (if applicable) removed and the Brake Booster Eliminator and Bias Valve installed before connecting the lines in this Brake Line Relocation. To install the BBE and Bias Valve, follow the steps below. If you already have these products installed, continue to step 2. 
  
Brake Booster Eliminator Installation:
  • Disconnect the brake lines at the master cylinder/abs module and remove from the engine bay.
  • Install the BBE through the holes in the firewall where the OE Master Cylinder/Brake Booster was located and secure it using the 4x M8 nuts supplied with the BBE.
  • Adjust the clevis on the BBE so that the pin can slide through it and the brake pedal without having to manipulate either to get the holes to line up.
  • Tighten the 5/16 x 24 nut on the Master Cylinder rod against the clevis to keep it from moving.
Bench Bleeding: 
  • We recommend bench bleeding the BBE Master Cylinder prior to connecting the Bias Valve. This is easiest done by securing one of the brake lines in your Brake Line Relocation Kit to the 3an banjo adapter on the Master Cylinder and putting the other end of the line in the Brake Reservoir.
  • Fill up the reservoir with brake fluid and begin pumping the pedal, making sure that the free end of the Brake Line is completely submerged in brake fluid.
  • Continue pumping the pedal for a few minutes until you can not see any bubbles coming out of the Brake Line in the reservoir. Once there are no more bubbles you're good to go!
Bias Valve Installation:
  • Remove the nut securing the bottom of the BBE Master Cylinder to the mounting plate and slide the Bias Valve bracket over the stud so that it is hanging. Thread the nut back on the stud and tighten it to secure the Bias Valve.
  • Using the Stainless Steel Hard Brake Line supplied with the Bias Valve, connect it from the -3an Banjo Adapter on the BBE Master Cylinder to the "in" fitting on the Bias Valve.
2. The first line to be attached is the Bias Valve to driver Fenderwell Line. This will be the short line with a 90 degree fitting at one end and a 45 degree fitting at the other end. You will connect the 90 degree fitting to the T Fitting on the Bias Valve. The 45 degree end will be routed through the hole at the bottom of the strut tower where it will then be connected to the Fenderwell Line. 
  
3. Next will be the Bias Valve to passenger Fenderwell Line. This line will be the long in the kit without the Chase Bays logo with a 90 degree fitting at one end and a 45 degree fitting at the other end. The 90 degree fitting will be attached to the T Fitting on the Bias Valve. Route this line down to the subframe, along the front of the subframe, and up the passenger side to the OEM hole in the strut tower to the Fenderwell Line connection. 
  
4. Last will be the rear line which will be the remaining long line in the kit with the Chase Bays logo, with a 90 degree fitting at one end and a straight fitting at the other end. The 90 degree fitting will be connected to the "out" fitting on the Bias Valve. Route this line down to the subframe, along the front of the subframe with the passenger line, and up the passenger side to the rear hardline coupling block. The straight M10 male fitting will attach to where the OEM hardline was connected at this location into the OEM hardline coupling block. 
  
Now that everything is connected, and you have double checked every AN and metric connection is tight, you will need to bleed each caliper, we suggest doing this with the Bias Valve knob all the way out (to the left) to give the most flow to the rear calipers. We have gotten the best results by using the two person method having one person pumping the pedal and another bleeding air at the caliper. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest caliper (driver front).
  
  
RHD Nissan S13 / S14 / S15 and Nissan R32 inBay with Single Piston Brake Booster Delete (CB-N-S134BBE-RHD)
 
1. We recommend having the ABS module (if applicable) removed and the Brake Booster Eliminator and Bias Valve installed before connecting the lines in this Brake Line Relocation. To install the BBE and Bias Valve, follow the steps below. If you already have these products installed, continue to step 2.
 
Brake Booster Eliminator Installation:
  • Disconnect the brake lines at the master cylinder/ABS module and remove from the engine bay.
  • Install the BBE through the holes in the firewall where the OE Master Cylinder/Brake Booster was located and secure it using the 4x M8 nuts supplied with the BBE.
  • Adjust the clevis on the BBE so that the pin can slide through it and the brake pedal without having to manipulate either to get the holes to line up.
  • Tighten the 5/16 x 24 nut on the Master Cylinder rod against the clevis to keep it from moving.
Bench Bleeding:
  • We recommend bench bleeding the BBE Master Cylinder prior to connecting the Bias Valve. This is easiest done by securing one of the brake lines in your Brake Line Relocation Kit to the 3an banjo adapter on the Master Cylinder and putting the other end of the line in the Brake Reservoir.
  • Fill up the reservoir with brake fluid and begin pumping the pedal, making sure that the free end of the Brake Line is completely submerged in brake fluid.
  • Continue pumping the pedal for a few minutes until you can not see any bubbles coming out of the Brake Line in the reservoir. Once there are no more bubbles you're good to go!
Bias Valve Installation:
  • Remove the nut securing the bottom of the BBE Master Cylinder to the mounting plate and slide the Bias Valve bracket over the stud so that it is hanging. Thread the nut back on the stud and tighten it to secure the Bias Valve.
  • Using the Stainless Steel Hard Brake Line supplied with the Bias Valve, connect it from the -3an Banjo Adapter on the BBE Master Cylinder to the "in" fitting on the Bias Valve.
2. The first line to be attached is the Bias Valve to driver Fenderwell Line. This will be the short line with a 90 degree fitting at one end and a 45 degree fitting at the other end. You will connect the 90 degree fitting to the T Fitting on the Bias Valve. The 45 degree end will be routed through the hole at the bottom of the strut tower where it will then be connected to the Fenderwell Line. 
  
3. Next will be the Bias Valve to passenger Fenderwell Line. This line will be the long in the kit without the Chase Bays logo with a 90 degree fitting at one end and a 45 degree fitting at the other end. The 90 degree fitting will be attached to the T Fitting on the Bias Valve. Route this line down to the subframe, along the front of the subframe, and up the passenger side to the OEM hole in the strut tower to the Fenderwell Line connection. 
   
4. Last will be the rear line which will be the shortest in the kit, with the Chase Bays logo, with a 90 degree fitting at one end and a straight fitting at the other end. The 90 degree fitting will be connected to the "out" fitting on the Bias Valve. The straight M10 male fitting will attach to where the OEM hardline was connected at this location into the OEM hardline coupling block. 
  
Now that everything is connected, and you have double checked every AN and metric connection is tight, you will need to bleed each caliper, we suggest doing this with the Bias Valve knob all the way out (to the left) to give the most flow to the rear calipers. We have gotten the best results by using the two person method having one person pumping the pedal and another bleeding air at the caliper. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest caliper (driver front).
  

LHD S13 / S14 inInterior Brake Line Relocation for Single Piston Brake Booster Eliminator
(CB-N-S134BBEINT)

Please read ALL of the installation instructions before attempting an installation.

All of our inInterior Brake Line Relocations require the use of our Single Piston Brake Booster Eliminator. 

Single Piston Brake Booster Eliminator Install:

  • Disconnect the brake lines at the master cylinder/abs module and remove from the engine bay.
  • Install the BBE through the holes in the firewall where the OE Master Cylinder/Brake Booster was located and secure it using the 4x M8 nuts supplied with the BBE.
  • Adjust the clevis on the BBE so that the pin can slide through it and the brake pedal without having to manipulate either to get the holes to line up.
  • Tighten the 5/16 x 24 nut on the Master Cylinder rod against the clevis to keep it from moving.
Bench Bleeding: 
  • We recommend bench bleeding the BBE Master Cylinder prior to connecting all lines. This is easiest done by securing one of the brake lines in your Brake Line Relocation Kit to the 3AN banjo adapter on the Master Cylinder and putting the other end of the line in the Brake Reservoir.
  • Fill up the reservoir with brake fluid and begin pumping the pedal, making sure that the free end of the Brake Line is completely submerged in brake fluid.
  • Continue pumping the pedal for a few minutes until you can not see any bubbles coming out of the Brake Line in the reservoir. Once there are no more bubbles you're good to go!

Next, you will install the bulkhead fitting and hardline to bring the lines to the interior:

Brake Line Relocation - Nissan 240sx S13 / S14 / S15 - BBE

  • Thread the hardline onto the outlet banjo adapter of the BBE facing down. Rotate the hardline to the firewall so that the tube nut/sleeve is in the flat area of firewall next to the BBE. The hardline might need to be very slightly adjusted to sit exactly where you need it to in order to line up with the firewall. However, DO NOT EXCESSIVELY BEND THE HARDLINE - this can kink the line which prevents proper braking, or even crack the material if done improperly. 
  • Using a marker or other marking tool, mark the center point of where the hardline goes into the firewall. Use a drill with a 3/8" or 10mm drill bit to make the hole for the bulkhead fitting. 
  • Install the bulkhead T fitting into the hole from the interior side and accompanying adapter to the end of the fitting, then re-install the bulkhead nut on the engine bay side.
  • Tighten the bulkhead nut to secure it through the firewall, then install the hardline to the bulkhead from the engine bay side. Tighten the hardline at both ends. 

This is the finished result of the the bulkhead fitting and hardline to bring the lines to the interior:

LHD inInterior Brake Line Relocation Install:

1. First, you want to lay all of the lines out on the floor so you can get an idea of what goes where. This is one of the largest kits we make, and we completely understand how it can be confusing/daunting to install. The kit will install front to back starting at the bulkhead T & T with female portion that should already be installed to the firewall at this point. 

2. Next, we will route the lines to the front fenderwell areas. You will use the longest line without a Chase Bays Label and the one that is about 18", both are 90 to straight fitting end lines, and install both of them to the bulkhead T & T fitting adapters in the firewall. The shorter line will use the straight end on the T to go to the area behind the front driver side wheel well, and the longer line will use the 90 end on the T to go to the area behind the front passenger wheel well.

3. Then, you will need to install the shortest pair of 90 degree male M10 to straight 3AN lines to the Fenderwell Line connections in the front fenderwells. These lines will need to be installed to help locate the spots to drill for bulkheads in the next step. 

4. Now you will need to carefully mark and drill a 3/8" or 10mm hole the areas that allow the bulkhead fittings to pass through to the wheel wells. You can drill from either side, just make sure where you drill lines up with the correct area on the opposite side. 

Fenderwell Side Example of the Bulkhead Holes and Lines (shown without bulkheads installed):Chase Bays inInterior Brake Line Relocation Kit for Nissan 240sx and Silvia How to

5. Now that the holes are drilled, install the bulkheads from the interior side to the wheel wells. Attach the bulkhead nuts from the wheel well side, and use the previously installed lines to connect the wheel well side to the interior side of your braking system. 

6. Move back into the interior of the car with the longest line in the kit with the Chase Bays logo. Install the straight end of this line to the initial bulkhead T, and the logo end to the inlet of the Bias Valve. Route the line through your interior behind the dashboard to get the Bias Valve in the location you desire. We shall mount this Bias Valve at the end of the install to ensure there are no hang-ups while fitting the rest of the kit. 

7. The longest line with 90 degree fittings on both ends will attach to the outlet of the Bias Valve and route to passenger side of the car. Thread on the long side of the 90 degree bulkhead to the other end of this line, and locate the spot on the passenger side of the car in which you can install the bulkhead directly above the factory rear brake hardline. 

8. Before continuing, prepare to mount the Bias Valve to the center console in the area it will be, then double check the interior and under side of the car to ensure you have picked a spot that allows the line to be directly above the rear brake hardline. Then, lower the factory rear brake and fuel hardlines from the under side of the car in this area. This is crucial for the next step.

9. Next, you will need to carefully mark and drill a 3/8" or 10mm hole the area that allow the 90 degree bulkhead to pass through to the under side of the car to the rear brake hardline. You can drill from either side. Once drilled, install the 90 degree bulkhead from the under side of the car into the interior, with the angled portion facing the rear of the car from the underside, and attach/tighten the bulkhead nut and line to the fitting. 

10. Finally, you will need to cut the factory rear brake hardline so the line ends at the end of the threads of the 90 degree bulkhead. Install the included tube nut and sleeve to the brake line, and flare the line to 37 degrees to create a proper AN flare seal. This cannot be a 45 degree flare. Once flared, install the hardline to the bulkhead fitting and reattach the hardline to the underside of the car. 

11. This is arguably the most important step. Double check all of your routing, connections, and Bias Valve location. Once you have determined everything looks correct, and the lines are routed as needed, tighten every connection starting from the front firewall to the rear wheel wells in order as they were installed.

Things to look for:

  • Make sure the bulkhead nuts are tightened at all 4 locations before tightening lines to them.
  • Both Fenderwell Line connections are tightened and their connections at each caliper. 
  • Bias Valve is mounted in a location that does not interfere with shifter or seats. 
  • Banjo bolt on the front of the BBE is tightened, as well as the hardline connections.

12. Now that everything is connected you will need to bleed each caliper, we suggest doing this with the Bias Valve knob all the way adjusted to give the most flow to the rear calipers. You can use a pressure or vacuum bleeder but, we have gotten the best results by using the two person method having one person pumping the pedal and another bleeding air at the caliper. You will want to start at the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger rear) and work your way to the closest caliper (driver front).