The Drift ZN6 / ZN8 Guide (FR-S / BRZ / GR86)
Ever since this chassis was released in 2012, I have been a big fan. We got one back then and color changed it, supercharged it, and took it to SEMA. We have owned, built, and maximized all the popular chassis: S13/S15, R34, Z32, Z33, E36, E46, JZX100, C6, S2000...all of them! I believe this chassis is the EASIEST to work on, can be set up for INSANE levels of grip in drift and road race (or time attack), and can be as stylish as what we regard as legacy chassis like the S chassis, R34, or JZX100. I also think we are taking part in building its legacy too. It's a regular on drift and track podiums, has won D1 and Driftmasters championships, and still maintains a big street style movement that I believe is as important as the former.
Just to get this out of the way, I think the FA20 / FA24 is incredible engine that got a bad rep much like Rotaries and RB engines because of two reasons: bad tuners and a lot of grip. Let me explain:
1) Bad Tuners - The first 10 years we did not have a great tuning platform (ECUTEK). Not saying great results can't be had or that it's a capable software but there is not a lot of good tuners in that world. I have personally blown an engine thanks to one and when you understand tuning and see what he did, it's sad. Motec was available early on but it's $4,000+ and that is difficult to swing for a grassroots guy. I personally have Motec on my 420hp FA20 but I get it...it's unreasonable. The limiter on those sound great though. Now we have LINK which is fantastic and best of all it's affordable and COMPLETELY plug and play. There are plenty of great tuners to choose from that tune Link like SpecTuned. Moving forward my hope is that everyone will get Link and go with a reputable tuner.
2) A lot of grip - It is shocking how much side bite these have on track once you get good coilovers, alignment, and 200A tires on it. Because of this force, we get oil slosh, which starves the engine, and off to heaven it goes. The internet goes haywire scratching their heads trying to solve a problem that was solved decades ago on other engines with a simple oil pan baffle. If you take a C6 Z06 to the track stock and track it, it will blow up. If you tell other owners what you did they will ask "Did you put an oil pan baffle (or dry sump) on it?". Hell even an Integra Type R will blow up without a baffle when you apply lateral acceleration. It is interesting when you're deep in motorsports and know the basics but others do not and are trying to solve an already solved problem. I digress...
There are three things I can say prove my case. One is GRcup. 2 seasons of 30+ FA24's with aero and SLICKS at very high lateral acceleration tracks, all they have is a Gazoo Racing design oil pan baffle. Same thing Tomei sells. Two is my 420hp FA20 that has been drifted high lateral acceleration tracks like Lime Rock and Pole Cat. Three is we have a GR86 with Tomei baffle and bolt ons that we Time Attack...we are fast enough to really slosh the oil too. Those are just the easy ones, there are hundreds of GR86's with Aero proving this further every weekend at tracks. If you modify it, tune it right. If you track it, put an oil pan baffle in.
Now that that's out of the way we can move into a back story and setup. Brief look at our first build from 2013:
That car got totaled sadly and I was struggling in the business some (circa 2015) so I moved on a bit and got a crappy little E36 to get seat time. The ZN6 chassis was very new still and people weren't doing much more than suspension and basic bolt-ons so our products didn't have a place yet. Then in 2020 I got another one and wanted to make it the perfect daily drifter. You can see that series here:
Since then I have been drifting / tracking it non stop and of course we have learned a TON about the FA20 and ZN6 platform. For example our entire GLTC Road Road season in our K24 ZN6: (Full disclosure we are removing the K24 since it did not work out well for us, and now we're going to an FA24 swap =O)
I explain this to show instead of just telling you that we really dug deep into the chassis and you can trust what we say since it's based in real world experience. We are doing the testing and development so you don't have to. We have ZERO part sponsors so anything we recommend is because we believe in it and use it ourselves.
Okay let's talk set up. I am going to break this up into stage 1, 2, and 3 and give an alignment setting for each level which is associated with power.
Stage 1 Drift Spec - Whether you're experienced or just starting out this still applies. This setup is phase one in getting you acclimated the chassis with a proper setup. Nothing hinders growth more than a bad set up so if you follow this, know its right and if you can't drift it then its driver not car. Each product has an explanation of why it's included in stage 1 when you click individual links.
Stage 1 Drift Package
All items below linked above in package deal
Tein Flex Z DRIFT & TRACK Spec Coilovers w/ Swift Springs
Cusco Pillowball Rear Camber LCA
GP Sports Rear Traction Arm Mod Drop Kit w/ Rigid Collar
KAAZ 2-Way L.S.D. w/ Super Q
HKS Hi-Power Racing Version Single Exhaust
Bride Seat Rail Type FG Left LHD (for RHD click here)
Stage 1 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -6º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber
0 toe
Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that still work with Stage 2 Angle
Front: 17x7.5 +16 OR 17x7 +10
215/40-17 or 215/45-17 200A
Rear: 18x9 +35
225/40-18 400A+
18x9 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.
Front can use 18's but 17's fit and drive better for drifting.
Stage 2 Drift Package
Torque Solution Diff Inserts TS-SU-761
Parts Shop Max Angle Kit (run setting 5 on Ackermann)
Chase Bays Handbrake / Chassis Bracket / Brake Line Kit
Moroso Oil Pan Baffle and Killer B Oil Pickup
Stage 2 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -6º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber
0 toe
Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that work with Stage 2 Angle
Front: 17x7.5 +16 OR 17x7 +10
215/40-17 or 215/45-17 200A
Rear: 18x9 +35
225/40-18 300A
18x9 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.
Front can use 18's but 17's fit and drive better for drifting.
Stage 3 Drift Package Turbo Version
HKS Turbo Kit
JDL 3" Over / Front Pipe Combo
JGP E85 Kit
Link
Hotchkis 25.4mm Front / 19mm Rear Sway Bar Kit
EPS Controller
Radiator
Engine and Trans Mounts
Stage 3 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -6º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber
0 toe
Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that work with Stage 2 Angle
Front: 17x7.5 +16 OR 17x7 +10
215/40-17 or 215/45-17 200A
Rear: 18x9 +35
255/35-18 or 265/35-18 300A
18x9 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.
Front can use 18's but 17's fit and drive better for drifting.
Stage 3 Drift Package NA Version
JDL 4-2-1 Header
JDL 3" Over / Front Pipe Combo
Denstoj Rocker Retainers (installs without any extensive work in cyl head)
JGP E85 Kit
Link
Hotchkis 25.4mm Big Front Sway
EPS Controller
Radiator
Engine and Trans Mounts
Stage 3 Alignment Specs
Front
Camber: -6º to -7° (can give or take depending on wheel fitment)
Caster: 8º
Toe: 7mm toe out PER side (Daily driven cars can go to 4mm Toe Out per side)
Rear
0 camber
0 toe
Stock Fender and Quarter Wheel Specs that work with Stage 2 Angle
Front: 17x7.5 +16 OR 17x7 +10
215/40-17 or 215/45-17 200A
Rear: 18x9 +35
255/35-18 or 265/35-18 300A
18x9 recommended over 8.5" or 9.5" since 225 thru 265 fits on a 9" and the tire size can grow with you and the car.
Front can use 18's but 17's fit and drive better for drifting.